Crested geckos might be the lowest-barrier reptile in the hobby: no basking lamp required in most homes, a commercial powder diet, and big expressive eyes. But "easy" isn't "no rules" — heat is actually their enemy.
Quick Facts
- Adult size: 7–9 inches (18–23 cm) including tail
- Lifespan: 15–20 years
- Minimum enclosure: 18"×18"×24" (45×45×60 cm) — vertical space matters more than floor space
- Activity: Nocturnal, arboreal (a climber, not a ground-dweller)
Temperatures — Cooler Than You Think
- Ideal daytime: 72–78°F (22–26°C)
- Danger zone: sustained temps above 82–84°F (28°C) cause serious heat stress
- Night: drops to 65–72°F (18–22°C) are healthy
Most homes need no heating at all. In summer, your job flips to keeping them cool. A thermometer/hygrometer at the top of the enclosure (warmest point) is the cheapest insurance you can buy.
Humidity Cycles
Cresties need a humidity cycle, not constant wetness: mist heavily in the evening to reach 80–90%, then let it dry down to ~50% by the next evening. Constant saturation invites skin infections and mold; constant dryness causes shedding trouble. Live or artificial plants and cork bark give climbing routes and misting surfaces.
Diet — The Easy Part
- Staple: commercial crested gecko diet (CGD powder mixed with water) — complete nutrition, replace every 24–36 hours
- Boost: calcium-dusted insects 1–2× weekly for enrichment and protein — use feeding tweezers
- Serve in small elevated cups or dishes — they eat where they climb, not on the floor
Handling & Tails
Cresties can drop their tails and they never grow back. A tailless gecko ("frogbutt") is perfectly healthy, but handle gently, never grab the tail, and keep sessions short for new arrivals.
Top Beginner Mistakes
- Adding a heat lamp "because reptiles need heat" → heat stress
- Constant misting with no dry-down period → skin problems
- Horizontal tank instead of vertical → a climber with nowhere to climb
- CGD left to spoil for days → refused food and bacterial growth
This guide reflects widely accepted modern husbandry standards. Every animal is an individual — consult a qualified reptile veterinarian for health concerns.