Bearded dragons are famously dog-like lizards — alert, food-motivated, and tolerant of handling. They're also one of the most commonly mis-kept reptiles. Here's the modern standard.
Quick Facts
- Adult size: 16–24 inches (40–60 cm)
- Lifespan: 10–15 years
- Minimum enclosure: 48"×24"×24" (120×60×60 cm) for an adult
- Activity: Diurnal (day-active) — which makes lighting non-negotiable
Temperatures
- Basking surface: 105–115°F (40–46°C)
- Warm side ambient: 85–95°F (29–35°C)
- Cool side: 75–85°F (24–29°C)
- Night: 65–75°F (18–24°C) — no light-emitting heat at night
Mount a halogen basking bulb in a quality fixture over a stone or cork platform, and verify surface temps with a reliable thermometer.
UVB — Not Optional
Bearded dragons require strong UVB: a 10–12% linear T5 tube spanning half to two-thirds of the enclosure, mounted 12–15" above the basking spot (closer if over mesh). Replace the bulb every 12 months even if it still glows — UVB output decays long before visible light does. Without proper UVB, dragons develop metabolic bone disease, the most common preventable killer of this species.
Diet Changes With Age
- Juveniles (under 12 months): roughly 70% insects / 30% greens, fed insects 1–2× daily
- Adults: flip it — roughly 70–80% plants / 20–30% insects, insects 2–3× weekly
- Best greens: collard greens, mustard greens, dandelion, squash
- Avoid: spinach (calcium binder), iceberg lettuce (nutritionally empty), fireflies (fatally toxic)
Dust insects with calcium at most feedings; a shallow feeding dish keeps greens off the substrate.
Top Beginner Mistakes
- Coil UVB bulbs or worn-out tubes → metabolic bone disease
- Basking spot too cool → poor digestion and appetite loss
- Feeding adult dragons like juveniles → obesity and fatty liver
- Enclosure too small — a 40-gallon tank is a juvenile grow-out, not an adult home
This guide reflects widely accepted modern husbandry standards. Every animal is an individual — consult a qualified reptile veterinarian for health concerns.